It's a jungle out there!

8 February 2007

You know it’s hot and humid when the Australians start to wilt in the heat. Even the slightest movement results in the sweat running off every part of you body. Lots of fluids taken on board while we sit outside the Cameroon consulate waiting for our visas. Once again there are a few hoops to jump through. $100 to cough up, copies of the vehicle certificates (from everybody!) and a letter from each of us saying why we would like to visit Cameroon. Eventually we leave Stu to it and head back to camp for a shower and some shade. The rest of the day is spent organising packs, reading and then uploading my blog as I discover some kind sole has a wireless connection nearby.

9 February 2007

Wake at 3 in the morning as the first drops rain lie on my face as I sleep with my head hanging out of my tent (its cooler that way!). Not having seen a drop of rain since 9 December its all pretty exciting. Within seconds the rain is torrential and the lightning and thunder right overhead with forks and flashes every other second. I dive for the truck as the windows are open and my laptop is on charge. The truck is not in the slightest bit weather proof and the rain pours through the windows even when they are shut and locked (sealant required me thinks). End up sleeping on the truck as the first foot of my tent is under two inches of water.

Head for Cameroon but progress is halted as a bridge has collapsed. Instead we head north stopping at a petrol station on the way where there is a truck from Brasschaat parked up. For those not in the know this is where my friends Paul and Gill lived for a few years and is a relatively small town just outside Antwerp. Despite scouring the petrol station I am unable to find the owner Jan Joris.

Back on the road we cover the distance to the border in good time, climbing into the hills and jungle. The border with Cameroon runs along the Mfum river and as we await our stamps from both sides we see a range of posters encouraging awareness and the protection of the Cross River Gorilla. Alas no sitings!

The Mfum River

Once on the Cameroon side we realise why the road is so infamous with reports of the next 65km taking anything between 4 hours and 4 days to cover depending on the rain. The road is just a mud track and what’s worse is that the major component is clay….always fun in the wet especially in a two wheel drive, 17 ton truck but more of that later.

We stop for half an hour at the border town of Ekok where Tom and I join the locals for a quick pint of Mutzig while we wait for the customs official to find the man who does the vehicle documents. Once this is sorted we manage to cover a few km in the next hour or so before turning down a track and setting up bush camp by the side of the road. A great night’s sleep as the air is a lot cooler at this altitude and even a cacophony of strange noises from the jungle around us cannot keep me awake. I have a new tent as well as the old one died….poles snapped and roof sagging badly. So much space!

10 February 2007

A quiet day on the road…..fat chance! Within the first half hour we are stuck in the mud. We get out in torrential rain to try and use the sand mats to ease us forward but to no avail. The main exhaust box has collapsed and has lodged under the truck in the mud. We spend a couple of ours in torrential rain working this free and manage to edge the truck four or five yards forward before the storage lockers on the underside of the truck see us wedged once again. Not really a surprise when you see that the local cars have jacked up suspensions that give them more ground clearance than us. Truck fit for purpose….I think not. Still, it all adds to the fun. Luckily the rain stops and we are joined by a passing

(Pics...What's left of the exhaust, Stu emerging from the mud, very helpful Nigerian Pastors)

bunch of Nigerian pastors who help us jack the truck up and shovel mud from underneath while at the same time filling the trench in front of us with stones to give us a fighting chance of moving forward. A special mention at this point to Stu and Tom who spend several hours wedged in the tight space under the truck chiselling away at the rock and mud.

With everyone pushing and to the huge relief of all concerned we make it back on to a level part of the track and head on our way after stopping briefly for a quick photo shoot with our happy Nigerian helpers. The next 30 minutes or so is uneventful and we start to believe that we may make it to Mamfe before nightfall. Alas we turn a corner and four lorries are blocking the road….the first of which has a problem with its fuel injector. We sit for several hours fighting off the flies and lending various tools and bolts to the truck at the front of the queue before we are back on the move again. But not for long. Another quagmire and trench awaits and we run aground again….this time it takes us two hours to extricate ourselves. No time is lost though as we manage to catch up the last of the trucks before turning off and bushcamping for the night. The camp is attacked by a swarm of flying ants which pretty much get everywhere. A good excuse to have tea and go to bed although I can’t help but think that there was a little extra protein of the flying ant variety stirred into our evening meal.

11 February 2007

Not a lot of food left on the truck so a quick cup of tea and we are on the road, particularly happy to see the back of the campsite as we awoke to an infestation of black ants with rather large teeth! We head south and eventually make Mamfe. It has taken us 40 hours to cover the 65km from the border. With Mamfe comes a tarred road and a big cheer goes up on the truck, the biggest coming from Dylan in the driver’s seat. Unfortunately, as we leave Mamfe, the dirt road starts again and for the next 50km we are watching the road nervously as potential danger lurks round every corner. At one point we all get off the truck having witnessed the van in front almost roll and get stuck in the ditches ahead. We leave the truck in the capable hands of Dylan who, somehow, manages to negotiate the dips and banks in the road but not without the truck lurching from side to side and the heavy sound of scraping from the rear. Surprisingly the only damage is a couple of sheared bolts on the bracket that holds one of the spare wheels however the list of damage is now looking a tad worrying as we limp south to Douala…

Tail bar bent and sheared off (now stored under the floorboards)

One back window shattered and boarded up, the rest leak like a sieve when it rains

Rear right light unit and number plate broken off (stored on the truck)

No power steering

Stiff/failing accelerator pedal

Various seats collapsing

No exhaust (middle box etc left in the mud of the jungle in northern Cameroon)

Various scrapes, scratches etc….

10 battered passengers, one tired driver and a tour leader who needs/deserves a few days off! Especially after we beat the Aussies in the one day series finals!

Luckily the truck goes on the boat back to England in a couple of days although I suspect its value no longer matches the cost of the journey. It may be cheaper to post what’s left!

I just knew it….tempted fate with the last paragraph and we broke down as the accelerator wasn’t working properly. Two hours before we are back on the move and limping towards Douala, the idea being that as the road improves we will be able to go quicker…..unfortunately, while the road surface changes to tarmac it has disintegrated and potholes/craters await round every corner. One such hole jettisons Cindy into the roof leaving her more than a little nauseous, possibly concussed and with a strange tingling sensation across her face …. Ahh the joys of overlanding (footnote she is alright today the 12^th she just has a stiff neck). Unable to travel on the road in the dark (can’t see the potholes) we go for a bit of mass trespass and while the initial welcome is less than friendly we persuade the locals to let us bushcamp. Tomato pasta for the third night running. Food a little scarce! Tasty though.

12 February 2007

Up early with a crowd of people round the truck watching our every move. Head off for Douala and once again progress is slow because of the state of the road, the state of the truck and the fact that we break down again….this time it’s a fuel problem but with a top up and help from a knowledgeable local to pump diesel through we are back on the road and make Douala around lunchtime scouring the hotels for rooms and eventually opting for the Eglise Envangelique Cameroon….. Not a bad place and a bed which is always welcome. We dump our stuff and then spend the next few hours emptying and cleaning everything on the truck All looking very impressive by the time we finish although as usual a couple of the lazier ones of the group manage to find a reason to opt out fairly quickly.

Arriving in Douala is a little odd as we are losing a few people and have plenty of time hear before flying to Addis Adaba in Ethiopia. We all feel a little demob happy and head for the German Seaman’s mission…. A nice place with a pool recommended for its sausages and lager. A very good night is had by all!

13 February 2007

A little jaded the morning is spent sorting out washing as the contents of my bag smell ‘fouler than a bucket of smashed crabs’ (thanks to Tom for the use of one of his favourite sayings). A lazy old day and off for lunch round the hectic streets of Douala trying not to get run over. Back to the German Seaman’s mission in the evening for sausage and chips.

14 February 2007

The postman has clearly got lost so I give up waiting and join the rest of the group sorting out flights to Ethiopia. For some strange reason a flight to Addis is £430 while a flight to Cairo stopping in Addis is £370…..we book the latter and I then head off for the German Seamen’s mission which has a pool and will serve as a base for a few of us until the 20^th when we fly to Addis. Others have opted for the beach or Mount Cameroon – which at 4095 metres is an active volcano and not a climb for the feint hearted. Only Tom and John R are keen to take it on! Barking! Stu and Dylan have dropped what’s left of the truck off at the docks as it leaves on the boat for blighty on the 18^th…. Not quite sure why we are here so early but that’s one for Overland club to answer or avoid as the case may be! Total journey distance to date 13,479km! 11 weeks gone, 14 or 15 to go!